Answers to commonly asked questions about the DrySnap® under deck system.
2. Do I need to register my DrySnap® system for warranty purposes?
Yes. This should be done within (30) days of the date of installation. It does not
take a lot of time, however, and can be completed online. Register my DrySnap
warranty.
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3. What colors are available?
DrySnap panels are available in white. The underside of a deck typically does
not get a lot of sunlight and can be very dark. The white panel brightens up this
area. Just like ceilings in house, it will compliment any wall color or exterior
finish.
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4. Can I paint the DrySnap® panels?
While there are some paints that can adhere to the panel, we do not recommend
that this product be painted. DrySnap is designed to be a very low-maintenance
product, and painting it may result in increased maintenance over time.
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5. What is a DrySnap® Certified Installer?
DrySnap Certified Installers have typically participated in and completed an onsite
training course on manufacturer recommended installation procedures. They
are more likely to be experienced with issues such as correcting joist
irregularities, installing ceiling fans or lighting fixtures, proper flashing techniques,
and installation of gutters. While we do recommend these installers, they are
private contractors and are not representatives of DrySnap or our affiliated
companies. You are not required to use a Certified Installer. If you prefer, you
may use your own contractor that you know and trust, or you may even install
yourself. See if there are Certified Installers in my area.
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6. Can a ceiling fan or light be installed with the system?
Yes, ceiling fans and lighting fixtures can be pre-wired and mounted to be flush
with the level of where the DrySnap panel will be positioned. We do not
recommend using recessed lighting fixtures with this system at this time. See the
Fan Kit / Ceiling Fan Installations.
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7. Is DrySnap® compatible with ACQ pressure treated lumber?
Yes. All DrySnap components are made of pvc vinyl. The DrySnap screws are
stainless steel. Unlike metal systems, the DrySnap system is not affected by
ACQ lumber.
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8. Can DrySnap® be installed if my joists are oriented parallel to my house?
Yes. It is possible for DrySnap support joist brackets to be mounted directly on
your existing joists (note: this may increase the number of materials slightly). If
the spacing is not suitable for this, 1"x4" pressure-treated wood furring strips can
be mounted to your joists prior to installing DrySnap.
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9. How do I keep the system clean?
The surface area can be cleaned with a damp cloth or a mild kitchen cleaning
product. Usually a soft, damp cloth with a spray cleaner will do the job. To
remove scratches, you may need to apply light pressure using a fine-grade
sanding pad. A garden hose spray can be used but you should dry the panels to
avoid spotting. If debris such as leaves gets in the system, you will need to
periodically flush out the system with a garden hose. This can be done from
above or possibly from access to the sides by removing the side trim.
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10. Do installers need access inside my home to install the system?
No. All work is done outside. Typically, installers will just need access to an
outside electrical outlet and a garden hose and do not need to enter your home.
Furthermore, typical professional installations are completed in just one or two
days.
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11. Can DrySnap® be used in areas where it snows?
Overall, DrySnap has been successfully used in regions that experience moderate snow accumulation. While DrySnap can be used in most areas, it is possible for damage to occur as a result of snow and ice build-up. There are many factors to consider and since each application and location is unique, proper consideration should be given before deciding if DrySnap is suitable.
Where snow is a concern, it may help to installing additional rows of joist brackets (outer rows positioned 3-1/2” on center from outer edges, inner row spacing reduced from 20” to 16” on center) as this will improve the strength and the slope of the system. It is also important that each deck is properly maintained (this includes removal of snowfall from deck surface and periodically flushing out debris from the system).
DrySnap was not designed for use in “extreme” situations (this includes but is not limited to: applications in high elevations and cold climates that receive very heavy snow loads; and applications where snow accumulation is not typically cleared from the deck surface) and should not be used in these situations.
All issues that result from snow and ice build-up are considered to be an Act of God. Since they are therefore not product defect or performance related, this is not covered under the manufacturer’s warranty. When in doubt, it is recommended that homeowners first consult with qualified professionals.
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12. What if the depth of my deck has a clear span (no support beams) that exceeds 16 feet?
Even though DrySnap panels are manufactured in 12’ and 16’ lengths only, you still may be able to install DrySnap in these instances. We do not recommend overlapping or butting panels together. We do recommend installing a fascia board that can support a gutter to allow you to subdivide the total area into two smaller usable DrySnap areas.
Install a pressure treated wood board (ex - 2"x6" or 2"x8") running across the width of the deck below the joist level at a point not to exceed 16' 2 1/2" out from the ledger board. This, in effect, will subdivide the clear deck span into a depth that conforms to the length of our panels. The fascia board should have a continuous flush surface and be capable of sustaining the weight of one or possibly two gutter systems. Flashing is not required, but may help prevent potential leaking at the beam. To flash above the support beam area, install 20” vinyl flashing between the joists so that it is angled downward towards one side forming a trough. This should extend 6” on both sides of the beam. For the outer section, see the above FAQ for installing on with cantilevered beams.
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13. What if the joists are not level?
With the awareness of this, installers can easily correct this so that DrySnap can be installed. For all DrySnap installations, it is critical that installer put a level to the underside of the joists in several locations. Any joists that are irregular, warped, or negatively pitched in relation to the direction of the intended water flow will need to be corrected. Small inconsistencies may be corrected by adding wood shims. For more severe irregularities, installers can build down the underside of the joists with wood blocking and then secure continuous 1”x3” pressure treated wood furring strips where each row of DrySnap joist brackets will be installed. Once the installer has verified that the underside of the deck is level, they can follow the DrySnap installation instructions, still using the required amount of pitch spacers. Proper installation will allow water runoff and improve the appearance of the installed panel.
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14. Can I install DrySnap® under a wrap around deck (L-Shaped transition)?
Yes. Typically, the joists are installed going away from the house. This will mean there are two different joist directions, with one side rotated 90 degrees. The easiest solution is to install a trim board that can effectively divide the two areas. The trim board should extend at least 2” below the height of the lowest section of DrySnap panels on both sides. This board is for aesthetic purposes only and will give the appearance that the board was pre-existing and will help to conceal the different panel slopes. Some Flashing may need to be installed above the trim board. Both systems will require a separate gutter system. The finished result should be a professional looking transition!
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15. DrySnap® literature shows a cantilevered deck (main support beam is inset 1-1/2’ to 2’ from the outer edge of the deck). I don’t see a second gutter system, where does the water go?
Cantilevered deck construction is a very common method for building decks. In general, there are two methods for installing DrySnap on cantilever (overhang) areas:
- Pitch towards beam & install another gutter system against the outer side of the beam. You should always remember to check the slope of the joists. The joists should be either level or slightly pitched in the direction of water flow. More pitch spacers may be needed to get the desired panel slope. Always use at least 2 rows of joist bracket for proper support & add incremental pitch spacers on the outer rows. Trim cap is used on the outermost edge of the deck.
- For cantilever areas of 2' spans or less, some installers choose to pitch the system away from the beam towards the outermost part of the deck (method shown in DrySnap literature). Always use at least 2 rows of joist bracket for proper support & add incremental pitch spacers on the outer rows. Trim cap is used against the support beam and there should be no capping covering the panel on the outermost edge of the deck. This allows water run-off. For aesthetics, you may conceal the end of the panels with a trim attached to the perimeter of the deck as long as there is 1/8-1/4" existing gap.
For either method, we leave it up to the installer’s discretion whether additional flashing is to be installed over the support beam to prevent possible leaking at this spot.
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